What should we spread on our bread – Butter, margarine or low fat spread?

For many years now, advice from health experts has demonised both fat and cholesterol, encouraging us to follow low-fat or even fat-free diets.

 

During this time, butter, a time-honoured food, has been banished from many kitchens in favour of margarines and low-fat spreads, both advertised as beneficial to our health. But what exactly is the truth behind these claims?

 

First of all, fat is an essential part of our diet, helping to generate energy as well as being necessary for the health of various systems including digestion, nerves and hormone production. Fat also acts as a carrier for vitamins A, D, E, and K.

 

As for cholesterol, it surprises many people to learn that the body makes most of it itself, an indication of how necessary it is. Mother’s milk is especially rich in cholesterol and both babies and children need cholesterol-rich foods to ensure proper development of the brain and nervous system.

 

Cholesterol acts as a precursor (effectively a key ingredient) for the hormones which help us to combat stress, for sex hormones and also vitamin D, a potent anti-cancer nutrient. It is also needed for the proper functioning of serotonin (our “feel good” chemical) in the brain, which is why low cholesterol levels have been linked to depression and aggressive behaviour.

 

So now that we have established that fat is necessary to our well-being, the question is which fats should we be eating?

 

First of all, let’s have a simple chemistry lesson. Fats are basically made up of 3 fatty acids (and hence fats are termed triglycerides), which look a bit like caterpillars. They have chains of carbon atoms attached to which are hydrogen atoms. It might help to think of carbon having four “hands”. It holds hands with each of its neighbouring carbons, and uses its two other hands to hold on to one or more hydrogen atoms.

 

The 3 main categories of fatty acids are saturated, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated.

 

Saturated: this means that the carbon atoms are literally saturated with hydrogen atoms (ie its hands are full). This makes saturated fatty acids highly stable, solid at room temperature and they do not go rancid when heated. Examples are butter and coconut oil. It is interesting to note that the liver makes saturated fats out of excess dietary sugars (as from refined carbohydrates), which are more likely the culprits for raised blood triglyceride levels than fat itself.

 

Monounsaturated: this means that within the chain of carbon atoms, two carbons share a special bond (special chums) and as a result only have an extra hand for one and not two hydrogen atoms. This results in them being liquid at room temperature. Examples are found in Oleic acid, the main component of olive oil, almond oil and avocados. Some nutritionists recommend these for cooking as they are relatively stable, but I prefer to reserve my olive oil for a light drizzling over already cooked foods, to ensure no damage whatsoever. If you do want to cook with olive oil, however, at the very least avoid methods which use very high temperatures such as roasting.

 

Polyunsaturated: this means that there are several sets of carbon-twins without their full entourage of hydrogen atoms. Examples of these are linoleic acid (referred to as omega-6) and linolenic acid (referred to as omega-3). These cannot be made in the body and so are “essential” fatty acids to be included in our diet. They are liquid, and highly reactive, especially susceptible to damage by heat, light and oxygen. These should NEVER be heated. Oils such as sunflower, safflower, corn, soybean, canola, rapeseed and cottonseed contain high amounts of these fatty acids, and therefore should not be consumed after any form of heating, as in cooking, frying or baking.

 

All fats are made up of a combination of these three sorts of fatty acids. Butter, for instance, is made up largely of saturated fat and so is hard at room temperature.

 

When unsaturated fats are damaged (by heat, oxygen or light) they go rancid, and produce highly reactive chemicals (known as free radicals) which attack cell membranes as well as blood vessels, a contributory factor in heart disease.

 

Equally damaging is hydrogenation, a process used by manufacturers to turn liquid vegetable oils into solid fats, and which results in the creation of partially hydrogenated or trans-fats. These play havoc with all cell metabolism and thus have far-reaching consequences for the health of all systems in the body. They have been linked with some of the major diseases such as diabetes, cancer, heart disease, sterility and immune system dysfunction.

 

So, returning to the subject of this article, what should we be spreading on our bread?

 

Butter is produced by churning milk or cream and, if organic, is unlikely to contain any extras to enhance colouring or shelf life (not to mention the antibiotic, pesticide and growth hormone residues found in non-organic). It is a rich source of vitamin A, necessary for healthy vision and immunity, as well as vitamins D, E and K₂. It also contains selenium, which together with vitamin E are potent antioxidants. Antioxidants are the fire-fighting brigade which helps to protect us from free radical damage. Butter contains a mixture of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, which have anti-microbial properties and protect the intestinal tract. It also contains some cholesterol.

 

Margarines and low fat spreads are a different species altogether. We have to recall that once upon a time they started life as a liquid / oil, and it would be prudent to ask ourselves just how much processing the oil went through in order to produce that tub of yellow semi-solid spread?

 

First of all there is the probability that some trans-fats are included. Many spreads are now advertised as “virtually free” or low trans-fat but “virtually” or “low” is not good enough for me.

 

Secondly, what else happens in the process? The oils are subjected to very high temperatures which denature nutrients, generate free radicals (the harmful chemicals) and destroy antioxidants (our fire-fighters).

 

Solvents (highly toxic and often carcinogenic) are used, and colourings are added to mask the unappealing grey hue of the resultant product.

 

Sterols (often from questionable sources such as wood chippings) are added so that manufacturers can claim cholesterol-lowering properties, but in fact these have been shown to disrupt the hormonal system, and another “health benefit” - synthetic vitamins - are also added. Nature packages nutrients together so that the body can recognise them and fully utilise them (as in butter). It never intended nutrients to be isolated or synthetic. Such things are as good as alien to the body and subsequently cannot be effectively used.

 

Lastly, the original oils used usually contain higher amounts of omega 6 than omega 3, leading to a huge imbalance of these two essential fatty acids. Such an imbalance brings problems of its own, and has been linked to many illnesses, including the major diseases listed earlier.

 

In summary, butter is by far more health-giving than the margarines and low fat spreads which, as can be seen above, carry far more dangers than benefits. I am not, however, advocating that you start spreading your bread with an inch thickness of butter. Nowadays we live quite sedentary lives compared to our ancestors and therefore need less saturated fats in our diet.

 

Moderation in everything!

 

A light scraping is my preferred way to go, but if eating a savoury dish, a little olive oil is a nice and healthy alternative, or how about letting that loaf speak for itself by going “au naturel”?.

 

For cooking, I would recommend coconut oil or butter, although frying is best kept to a minimum. Vegetables can instead be sweated in a little water or even apple juice, or steamed and then olive oil drizzled over the finished article.

 

The polyunsaturated oils are best eaten as cold pressed oils (cold pressing is a gentle process which extracts the oils whilst preserving the integrity of their nutrients) and in moderation, and one should also bear in mind that a high ratio of omega 6 to omega 3 carries risks too.

 

I would recommend ringing the changes between butter, coconut oil, and olive oil so that you get the benefits of each of these, with also a little fish oil or flax seed oil for its omega-3 content.

Judith Reid is a Naturopathic Nutritional Therapist working in Dorking, Surrey.

She is passionate about healthy eating, having experienced the benefits it gave her in recovering from a serious illness several years ago. She feels that nutrition is key to optimal health at all levels, helping to balance us physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually so that we can be the best that we can be, living happier and more fulfilling lives. She also believes very much in empowering her clients with the knowledge they need to make informed decisions on their own journey.